Whispers Of The Vale
Perched on the border between Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire, Bottesford is a picturesque village that serves as a natural gateway to the Vale of Belvoir.
This delightful circular walk begins at Bottesford Station and offers a gentle yet inspiring journey through centuries of local history and riverside tranquillity.
Opened in July 1850, Bottesford Railway Station remains a fascinating portal to the past. With its original Victorian architecture and rural setting, the station has long served as a lifeline for the village, connecting Bottesford to Grantham, Nottingham, and beyond. It is the only station in Leicestershire on the Poacher Line and once had a second station (opened in 1879) that closed just a few years later when through services were discontinued. Today, the station continues to welcome walkers, commuters, and heritage tourists, offering good access to Bottesford and nearby landmarks, such as Belvoir Castle.
From here, the route leads to St Mary the Virgin's Church. Dating back to 1170, it is a masterpiece of medieval architecture and is often referred to as the Lady of the Vale. Its spire pierces the winter sky, and inside, the tombs of the Earls of Rutland, including the infamous "Witchcraft Tomb," offer a glimpse into local legend and lore. Its earliest Norman features are still visible in the base of the tower and parts of the nave. Major expansions occurred in the 14th and 15th centuries, when the chancel and nave were rebuilt in the Decorated Gothic style, showcasing ornate stonework. The spire, added in the late 15th century, remains one of the tallest in the county and is visible from Belvoir Castle on clear days. The churchyard has over 900 graves, including those of RAF airmen from World War II, linking Bottesford's rural calm with its wartime resilience.
During December, the church often hosts candlelit services and festive concerts, and is open daily, with level access paths, seating areas, and interpretive panels for self-guided exploration. Whether you are drawn by its architectural splendour, noble tombs, or the whisper of folklore in the stone, St Mary's offers a profoundly atmospheric experience.
Across from the church is the Earl of Rutland's Hospital, founded in 1591 by Elizabeth, Countess of Rutland. This Grade II listed alms-house once housed elderly Bedesmen, who wore distinctive uniforms and lived under the patronage of the Rutland estate.
Following on along the lane and tucked behind The Green, where Devon Lane curves gently past the churchyard, lies one of Bottesford's most quietly evocative landmarks: the old ford across the River Devon. Though often overlooked by hurried visitors, this shallow crossing has borne the weight of centuries, hooves, boots, wheels, and stories, etched into its stony river bed. The ford once formed part of the ancient route between Bottesford and Allington, a vital link for farmers, traders, and parishioners. Long before bridges became commonplace, fords like this offered practical passage across rivers, provided the waters behaved. In Bottesford, the River Devon's gentle flow made it a reliable crossing for much of the year, though heavy rains could turn it into a treacherous torrent.
Alongside the ford stands the late 18th-century footbridge, a graceful sandstone arch commissioned to offer safer passage.
The patch of grass beside the ford, known as The Green, was once a more expansive communal space. It hosted village gatherings, children's games, and seasonal festivities. Today, it remains a peaceful spot to pause and reflect.
At the heart of Bottesford village, where Market Street meets Chapel Street, stand two of its most historical features: the 14th-century Market Cross and the restored village stocks and whipping post. Together, they form a tableau of medieval life, where commerce, community, and justice converged in the open air.
The Market Cross dates to the 14th century, a time when Bottesford was emerging as a local hub for pastoral farming and trade. It served both symbolic and practical roles: it denoted a place of legal trading, offered a platform for public proclamations, and functioned as a gathering point for villagers and travellers. Its octagonal base once supported a tall column topped with a cross, marking the site of weekly markets and seasonal fairs. Though the column is now truncated, the base remains intact and is carved with heraldic shields, believed to represent local noble families. Sadly, centuries of weathering have rendered most of these carvings unreadable.
Adjacent to the cross are the village stocks, restored in the 20th century to reflect their original form. These wooden restraints were used to punish minor offences, drunkenness, petty theft, or disorderly conduct, by exposing offenders to public shame. The whipping post, a vertical timber set beside the stocks, was used for corporal punishment, typically administered under the supervision of parish constables. These instruments of justice were not unique to Bottesford, but their survival here is rare. They offer a tangible link to the parish court system, where justice was local, swift, and often theatrical.
On the corner of Market Street, look out for Doctor Fleming's Hospital (also called Fleming's House). Founded in 1620 by Dr Fleming, rector of Bottesford and chaplain to the Earl of Rutland. It was built specifically to house six elderly village women who lacked family support. It retains some of its original stone-masonry and features a datestone now set in brickwork above the entrance. Though much rebuilt, it remains a Grade II listed building.
A few steps further brings you to Flemings Bridge, built in 1590 by Dr Fleming after a near-drowning in the flooded river. His act of gratitude lives on in the elegant arch of the bridge, which now frames postcard-perfect views of St. Mary the Virgin's Church.
For those seeking a longer festive outing, Bottesford makes an ideal base for exploring nearby Belvoir Castle. Just a short drive away, the castle rises dramatically above the Vale. During the festive season, Belvoir Castle transforms into a winter wonderland. The estate's illuminated garden trails are a special highlight, drawing visitors from across the region.
On your way back, a stop at Belvoir Retail Village offers a modern contrast to the historical walk. Located at the foot of the castle, the village features boutique shops, festive food stalls, and local crafts. Whether you are picking up handmade gifts, warming up with mulled wine, or browsing seasonal displays, it is a delightful way to round off your day.
I hope you enjoy this as much as I did; it is a true festive treat!
Happy rambling!
Sally.
All imagery courtesy of Sally Outram.
The basics
Distance: 1.75 miles / 2.8 km.
Severity: Easy.
Gradient: Mostly flat.
Approx time: 1 hour, but I would allow extra for exploring.
Terrain: Surfaced paths, tracks, riverside.
Stiles/Gates: None.
Maps: Bottesford Railway Station NG13 0GT.
Start Point: Bottesford Railway Station, or close by roadside near station.
Dog friendly: Yes, please keep dogs on a lead.
Refreshments: There are pubs in the village, but you will need to check opening times. Benches situated along the route, perfect for a picnic. Cafe at nearby Belvoir Retail Village (short drive away).
Directions
- With your back to the railway station, cross over the road and turn right. Follow the footpath for a short distance, just before the road bends to the left, you will see a signposted, tree-lined walk way to your left.
- Follow the track, heading towards the church spire in the distance. You will soon come to a wooded area, note the gentle -flowing River Devon to your left, and St. Mary the Virgin’s church on your right.
- Follow the track round to the right, passing the church and over a stone bridge onto Church Street. Keep the brick wall to your right and continue until you reach the road junction. Turn right onto Rectory Lane. Continue along the railed path, you will see a small white bridge which crosses over the old ford next to the church. At the entrance to the church, cross over the road onto Devon Lane. Notice the old Alms-house’s to your right.
- Follow the pretty path along Devon Lane and veer left. Ahead you will see the picturesque ford and wooden bench. This is the perfect spot to take a break and enjoy the view before continuing. Cross over the footbridge over the ford and continue until you reach Chapel Street.
- Turn left onto Chapel Street to the junction with Market Street. Look out for the old, Doctor Flemming Hospital on the corner. Turn right onto Market Street and continue until you reach the square, where you can see the market cross and stocks.
- Cross over the road to the cross and continue along Grantham Road for a short distance. Turn left onto Church Street and walk to its end. Turn right and follow the road until you reach the small stone bridge again.
- After the bridge turn left down a leafy footpath which runs by the side of the church. Follow the path round to the right heading towards church lane then turn right at Church Farm and continue until you reach an intersection of paths, where you turn left and rejoin the path from the railway station to retrace your steps back to the start.